Men’s Dress Shoes
7 Day Workshop Course
Men’s shoe styling is the next frontier in shoe design. Any student who wants to “break out” is encouraged to do so. There are huge opportunities for a “new look” in the men’s shoe world. In much of the world, men are the colorful dressers. Bring your ideas/style and let’s see what can be created.
Without doubt, custom hand-made shoes are a luxury for the feet. This shoemaking course guides you through every stage in the process of hand making a pair of classic men’s oxfords from pattern generation to polishing in just seven days. Fundamentals that can be applied to many styles of footwear are emphasized. Premium French calf is used and the results are stunning.
All materials provided.
Class Duration: 7 days
Prerequisites: Students are encouraged to read Handmade Shoes for Men by Laszlo Vass and Magda Molnar, before attending. Sewing boot is included in this course.
(one hour for lunch)
DAY 1: 9am-5pm, Sewing Boot Camp
DAY 2: 9am – 5pm, Basics
- Measuring your feet
- Discussion of men’s classic styling, what works/what doesn’t, review of several different classic oxford styles
- Choosing your last and altering, if necessary
Day 3: 9am – 5pm, Patterns and Parts
- Taping your last
- Creating mean form (paper representation of both sides of the last averaged)
- Assessment of your skill level and style selection
- Stylizing of your pattern
- Turning your patterns into working patterns with seam and lasting allowances
- Cutting of the parts of your shoe
- Skiving (thin the edges) of appropriate parts, turn edges, perforate, gimp (serrate) edges.
Day 4: 9am – 5pm, Assembly and Lasting
- You continue and complete assembling your shoes
- Create your insoles
- Last shoes (stretch leather over the shoe forms)
Day 5: 9am – 5pm, Stiffeners and Lasting
- Cement liners to insole
- You create and cement the stiffeners at the heel and toe
- You re-last the heel and toe, cementing the uppers to the liner and insole
- Scour lasted shoe bottom and apply welt
Day 6: 9am – 5pm, Sole Attachment
- Cement your precut and finished sole to the shoe bottom and welt
- Dye, wax, and finish your sole edges (several methods demonstrated)
Day 7: 9am – 3pm We’ve got a shoe!
- Attach and finish your heels
- Clean up and polish, learning professional finishing techniques.
- Group discussion and positive critique
- Group and individual photos, shoe photos
- Distribution of class notes and source list